Sub-Zero 736TCI, Bellevue: a condenser buried in dust
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Guide · Refrigeration
A refrigerator that never seems to switch off is usually struggling to move heat. Here are the causes we actually find on built-in units, from the cheapest fix to the most involved, with real examples from jobs around Seattle.
The short answer
A refrigerator that runs all the time is usually working hard to get rid of heat it can’t move. On the built-in units we see, the common causes are a dust-clogged condenser, a door that doesn’t seal, an evaporator coil iced over because the defrost system failed, or a sealed system low on refrigerant. The first two are cheap to fix; the last two need a technician. Long run times on their own aren’t always a fault, so check the temperatures before assuming the worst.
Put an appliance thermometer in the refrigerator and the freezer and read them the next morning. If they hold 40 °F or below and 0 °F, the unit is doing its job. Some newer refrigerators are designed to run long, quiet, low-speed cycles, and any refrigerator runs longer after a big grocery load, a lot of door opening, or on a hot day.
It’s a problem when long run times come with temperatures creeping up, a grille area that feels hot, frost where there shouldn’t be any, or a fan that’s suddenly loud.
If the compressor keeps switching on and off every few seconds, that’s a different problem called short-cycling. On a Sub-Zero 249FF freezer on a yacht in Everett, the cause was a failed start relay and overload on the compressor, which kept tripping it before it could run a full cycle. This guide is about the opposite: a unit that runs and runs.
The condenser coil behind the grille is where the heat goes. When it’s matted with dust, the compressor runs hotter and longer to do the same job. On a Sub-Zero 736TCI in Bellevue, the refrigerator felt hot along the bottom, and the condenser was buried in dust and lint. Cleaning it restored airflow on the spot. Our Sub-Zero maintenance guide shows how.
A torn or flattened gasket, a door that doesn’t close fully, or something on a shelf pushing it open lets warm, humid air in all day. The same Bellevue 736TCI also had a door gasket torn along the hinge side. Run a strip of paper around the door: wherever it slides out with no resistance, the seal isn’t doing its job.
Frost-free refrigerators melt the frost off the evaporator coil on a regular defrost cycle. When the defrost system fails, ice builds up, air can’t pass through the coil, and the unit runs constantly without getting cold. Typical signs are frost on the back wall of the freezer, a loud fan, and an ice maker that stops.
On a Bosch French-door refrigerator in Lake Forest Park, the freezer couldn’t keep ice cream solid, the ice maker had stopped and the fan was loud. The evaporator was packed in ice from top to bottom because the defrost sensor had failed. On a Liebherr CS 2060 in Seattle, the freezer was frosting over for the same kind of reason, and the fix was a new defrost sensor mounted where Liebherr’s instructions specify.
If the refrigerant has leaked out, the unit can run nonstop and never reach temperature. On a Sub-Zero BI-36UID in Seattle, the refrigerator section couldn’t hold temperature and ice was building up inside it. The refrigerator’s sealed system had leaked, and we replaced the compressor, evaporator and filter-drier. That model has separate refrigerant systems for the refrigerator and freezer, so one side can fail while the other keeps working. On a 26-year-old Sub-Zero 700BFI freezer in Woodinville, a leak at the heat exchanger and moisture in the compressor meant a full sealed-system rebuild.
If the temperatures are still climbing after that, the cause is most likely the defrost system or the sealed system, and both need a technician. Sealed-system work requires EPA Section 608 certification.
On built-in refrigeration, usually yes. Sub-Zero built-ins commonly last 20 to 35 years or more, and replacing a panel-matched unit can mean cabinetry work too. Our repair-or-replace guide goes through how to weigh it. We repair Sub-Zero, Liebherr, True Residential, Thermador and Viking refrigeration, and we’re an Authorized Service Provider for Liebherr and True Residential.
Real photos
Sub-Zero 736TCI, Bellevue: a condenser buried in dust
Bosch, Lake Forest Park: an evaporator coil packed in ice after the defrost sensor failed
Sub-Zero BI-36UID, Seattle: gauges on the sealed system after the leak repair
Questions
Yes. We repair Sub-Zero, Liebherr, True Residential, Thermador and Viking refrigeration across King and Snohomish County, and we’re an Authorized Service Provider for Liebherr and True Residential. See our refrigerator repair page.
Usually. Sub-Zero built-ins commonly last 20 to 35 years or more. We rebuilt the sealed system on a 26-year-old Sub-Zero freezer in Woodinville rather than replace it. See our repair-or-replace guide.
Not if the temperatures are also creeping up. Some newer refrigerators run long, low-speed cycles by design, and any unit runs longer after a big grocery load or on a hot day. Check both compartments with a thermometer: 40 °F or below and 0 °F means it’s keeping up.
The most common causes are a dust-clogged condenser, an evaporator coil iced over because the defrost system failed, or a sealed system low on refrigerant. On a Bosch in Lake Forest Park the evaporator was packed in ice from a failed defrost sensor; on a Sub-Zero BI-36UID in Seattle, the refrigerator side had leaked refrigerant.
On a frost-free freezer, that usually means the defrost system isn’t clearing the evaporator coil. A failed defrost sensor caused it on a Liebherr CS 2060 in Seattle and on a Bosch in Lake Forest Park. A door that doesn’t seal can add to it.
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